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Vol. XVII No. 143
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The Restaurant Changing How an Entire City Thinks About What It Eats

Photograph: Sophie Laurent / The Herald

Food

The Restaurant Changing How an Entire City Thinks About What It Eats

In a former tram depot, a chef serves meals that make the politics of eating feel like a pleasure.

The menu changes completely every day. There are no signature dishes, no reliable favourites, no dishes that have been on the menu long enough to become institution. There is what the team sourced that morning, and there is what they have decided to make of it.

“The menu is not our idea,” says the chef. “The menu is a conversation between us and the people who grew the food. We just translate.”

In January the menu can feel austere. In June, abundant. In October, elegiac. What it always feels, regardless of the month, is considered.

Sophie Laurent
Written by

Culture Editor. Critic, essayist and former Booker Prize judge.

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